Weekly Updates - September 2013

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27 Sep 2013 17:25 Mini Works: Longer Weekday Opening Hours

Autumn is well & truly under way with leaves starting ti change and the darkness coming ever quicker in the evenings. As we move into the normal Climbing Walls busy season we are announcing a change in the opening hours for the Mini Works for weekday evenings.

From the 1st October the Mini-Works will now be open from 10am to 9pm Mon-Thurs. This will allow you to spend more time testing yourself in both centres. We currently have extensions of the Green Spottys, Blacks, Yellows & Murples and in the near future we will be extending the Red & Greens into here too.

All this means that you have even more options when you come for a climb. Isn't that nice : )
 

 

 

25 Sep 2013 13:27 Climbing Injuries & Amatsu Thearpy

Over the Summer months you may have seen, or been treated, by Alex Mosco - an Amatsu Therapy Practitioner - in The Climbing Works. Alex has treated quite alot of climbers and runs a Friday clinic in our activity room within the Mini Works. We asked Alex to summarize some of the common ailments and issues he has seen from the climbing community over the Summer months:

"
AMATSU THERAPY AT THE CLIMBING WORKS

Firstly I’d like express my gratitude to everyone participating in the Amatsu Drop-In Clinics on Thursdays. People have asked “what are you doing?”, “where does Amatsu come from?”, “how did you get into it?”, “can you look at my…?”, and “I think this is ok, but can you just check?”

If you were one of those people, hopefully I was able to answer your questions. If you decided to get on the treatment couch for a free session, I hope you benefited. If you booked online for a full balance, I know you benefited- you’ve told me yourselves! I have genuinely enjoyed treating people and found it interesting and beneficial to my continuing studies and since June I’ve noticed some climbing specific common complaints.

They have been among others:
• Tight shoulders.
• Stiff lumbars.
• Painful wrists and elbows.
• Restrictions in hip movement.
• Neck problems and headaches.
• Sciatic symptoms.

Amatsu Therapy asks “Are these complaints isolated as one issue? Do they stand alone?” Well, the short answer is “No”. Put simply injuries, niggles, pain and stiffness are often related to other issues in the body. They are a symptom or a cause. It’s often the case that people are unaware of a problem in an area of the body until they have something else looked at owing to these interconnected relationships.

If we take the classic example of shoulder pain, stiffness at the joint, and it “only hurting in this position” then Amatsu Therapy diagnoses areas around a joint to assess their quality of movement.

What we find and diagnose in Amatsu are common links contributing to pain or restriction in the body. With the shoulder one related structure is the neck. Because the neck is held on the spine over the shoulders, problems in either can affect the function of the other. Amatsu assesses to see where dysfunction lies and treats accordingly.

Hopefully it’s becoming clearer at this stage that just because pain and restriction are present in one area of the body, other structures can influence these. When over-worked muscle tissue and fascia become tight around our shoulder, or neck, they hold the joints in an unnatural position. Now dysfunctional, the body will compensate in order to move around these problems.

Treating climbers it's easy to see that after a few hard pulls, pops into far off holds, a knee drop, and a toe and heel hook here or there means that the body will get twisted up from time to time. The spine has to deal with that motion. This means that the spine needs mobility to help allow other parts further up (near the shoulder for eg) to work correctly.

Tight muscles around the spine really can impact shoulder mobility. Muscular restrictions really can stop bones and joints from moving correctly. Restrictions and dysfunction in one area of the body really can create issues in another. No one issue is an isolated case and the body is global. In Amatsu we refer to this Biotensegrity.

Amatsu Therapy diagnoses by Muscle Testing, palpation and touch to feel restrictions around an area, as well as observing a person’s gait (ability to walk) determining asymmetry in the body. Amatsu Therapy treats the body globally, diagnoses the cause of symptoms, treats these as a priority, and treats key structures from the feet upwards.

Listen to your body, and look after yourself and when needs be, have the problems resolved
"
Thursday Drop-In Clinic:
• Once per month from 10th October.
• Drop-In Services from 4:30pm until 9:45pm.

Friday Clinic in the Mini Works:
• Price increase from 10th October.
• £35 per hour long Balance.
You can book in for a session online via The Climbing Works website>>









 

12 Sep 2013 Routesetting Feedback: Wasp

The new wasp circuit has now been up on the walls at The Climbing Works for a couple of weeks, with many getting stuck in (and some getting stuck!). These are popular problems, drawing in climbers like, well, wasps to jampots, but what have you all been thinking about them?

I promise that if ten people fill out a feedback form (with proper answers and all) I will write a blog without any wasp puns next time...

There's your challenge. Now fill in the form!

Circuit: Wasp

Grade: 6b-6c

 

Venue
The Climbing Works

12 Sep 2013 Routesetting Feedback: Red

As one of our easiest graded circuits at The Climbing Works, we're always keen to keep the red circuit refreshed. It gets climbed by so many people be they beginners trying out the walls for the first time, more experienced climbers completing a warm up, or as a return from injury. It's important we get it right and enjoyable for all, so let us know how we did by filling out the form below.

 

Circuit: Red

Grade: 3-4

Venue
The Climbing Works

11 Sep 2013 13:00 Peak Rock: The History, The Routes, The Climbers - the book

Coming out this Autumn is a very cool book destined to become a bit of a classic. We're not just saying that because our own Percy Bishton has written the bouldering history*. You can read all the blurb about it below but you can also preorder a very limited edition signed copy of Peak Rock in a slip case (cardboard sleeve) at the normal retail price. You can pre-order on-line through The Climbing Works here>>

The blurb:
Peak Rock is a celebration of significant developments at the cutting edge of rock climbing in the Peak District, from the day that James W Puttrell first set foot on rock at Wharncliffe in the late nineteenth century, through to modern day ascents on the area’s gritstone and limestone crags.

Meticulously researched and written by a team of local authors, this is the story of the sharp end of Peak District climbing as told through the words of many of the Peak’s – and the world’s – top climbers, including: James W Puttrell, Jack Longland, Joe Brown, Don Whillans, Ed Drummond, Tom Proctor, John Allen, Ron Fawcett, Andy Pollitt, Jerry Moffatt, Johnny Dawes, Ben Moon, Miles Gibson, Pete Whittaker, Steve McClure, Ryan Pasquill and many more.

The late Giles Barker first started work on Peak Rock – then titled Peak Performance – in the early 1980s, before progress was halted by his premature death in 1992. It was almost twenty years before Phil Kelly picked up where Giles left off, pulling together Giles’ original research and interviews, which were stored at the Mountain Heritage Trust. Phil enlisted Graham Hoey to work on the book, updating the manuscript with their own interview material and other primary source information, writing a number of missing chapters and also adding a number of chapters, including the significant developments of the 1980s, 1990s and 2000s. 

Phil and Graham brought in a team of experienced Peak District climbers drawing on their knowledge of specific developments – trad climbing, sport climbing, bouldering, gritstone, limestone – and worked with them to develop individual chapters. This resulting book on the history of Peak District climbing is the most comprehensive to be published since Eric Byne and Geoff Sutton’s High Peak in 1966.
 

Cover: Andy Pollitt on Scritto's Republic ph. Bernard Newman


*he actually has made me write this - the bouldering bit will likely be the most boring bit of a very good book. Percy does like to waffle on....

2 Sep 2013 13:59 Therapy Sessions at The Climbing Works

Over the years we've had a number of different sports therapy sessions available to our customers on different nights across different months. These were always well received (being free and at a convenient evening time helped) but there is only so much you can do in a 15min session.

The opening of the Mini Works has given us some extra space with an activity room that we can offer to local professionals to use for the evenings. So if you have a recurring climbing / sports / life injury that is causing you bother you can now take advantage of two new regular sessions that are taking place at The Climbing Works. These session are outlined below and can be pre-booked in advance online.
We have worked with these practitioners to offer our customers a very special price for these services so read below and if suffering, get yourself booked on and back on the road to recovery.

Osteopathy:

Mike Birkby, osteopath, manual therapist and sports massage practitioner will be providing treatment sessions at The Climbing Works on Wednesday evenings.
A Sheffield local, Mike has been climbing, cycling and running for several years and has experience and understanding of how these sports and training for these sports impacts on our bodies. His work focuses on optimising the body’s musculoskeletal function and efficiency of movement through massage and stretching techniques, mobilisation and manipulation.
40 minute sessions: £20
Book online here>>
you can pre-book up to 3 weeks in advance, just scoll down to the date you wish to reserve
Session times available: Wed: 4.20-7.40pm

Amatsu:

Alex Mosco is an Amatsu Therapy Practitioner, martial artist, climber, cyclist and walker. He will be providing treatment sessions at The Climbing Works on Friday evenings.
Amatsu Therapy applies soft-tissue mobilisation techniques to relieve restrictions in muscles, tendons, fascia, and ligaments. These releases re-pattern muscles, improving joint function, ranges of movement and treat the whole body. Treatment comprises hands-on physical manipulation suitable for all ages, genders and levels of mobility and can be used preventatively or post-injury.
Balance approx 1 hour: £25
Book online here>>
you can pre-book up to 3 weeks in advance, just scoll down to the date you wish to reserve
Remain clothed in loose, comfortable attire.
Under 16’s to be accompanied by parent/guardian.
Session times available: Fri: 4-7pm
The 7pm slot will finish at 7.50pm

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